Ontario Cottage Closing Checklist [2026]: Every Step, in Order
Closing an Ontario cottage properly takes about four hours and comes down to nine things in a fixed order. Shut the water off at the source, drain and then blow out every line at 40 to 50 PSI, put RV antifreeze in the traps and toilets, drain the water heater, hold the heat at 10 to 12 degrees, seal the rodent gaps, pull the dock, and photograph the whole thing before you lock up. Skip the blow-out step and you are gambling on a $20,000 to $50,000 burst-pipe claim. This is the checklist we run on properties across Collingwood, the Blue Mountains, Thornbury, and Wasaga Beach.
Every October, thousands of Toronto and GTA families face the same question: is my cottage properly closed for winter? In the Collingwood and Blue Mountain area, where temperatures routinely drop below -20°C between December and March, a poor winterization job can mean burst pipes, mould, critter infestations, and repair bills that dwarf the cost of doing it right.
This guide covers the complete winterization process we use at Cottage Care Company when performing Season Turn closings for our clients across Southern Georgian Bay. Whether you tackle this yourself or hire a professional, following these steps will protect your investment through the coldest months of the year.
When to close: the frost sets the deadline
The first hard frost in Collingwood and the Blue Mountains typically arrives in the second half of October. The Georgian Bay shoreline runs about a week warmer than properties inland toward Clearview and Stayner, because the water holds its heat into November. A chalet up on the escarpment near Craigleith will freeze before a waterfront place in Thornbury does. If you own the higher property, close first.
| Window | What happens | Why then |
|---|---|---|
| Late September | Book the date | Contractors in Collingwood, Thornbury, and Wasaga Beach fill their October weekends by the end of September. Book the dock crew at the same time, since both jobs usually run on one visit. |
| First half of October | Do the exterior work | Dock and lift removal, gutters, hoses, furniture, and the BBQ. All of it is easier before the water gets cold. |
| Second half of October | Close the building | Water, heat, pests, and the photo record. Be finished before the first hard frost rather than chasing it. |
| November onward | Watch it | Closing is one day. The risk runs for the next six months, which is a different problem needing a different answer. |
For the week-by-week version of this calendar, from Labour Day planning through November, see our Georgian Bay cottage closing timeline. And if it is still August, our guide to starting the fall trade booking calls in August explains why the good crews are gone by Labour Day.
1. Plumbing and Water System
Plumbing is the single most important part of winterization. A burst pipe can dump hundreds of litres of water into your cottage before anyone notices. In our experience, plumbing failures account for the majority of winter damage claims in the Georgian Bay area.
Shut Off and Drain the Water Supply
- Turn off the main water supply at the source. For well systems, shut off the pump and drain the pressure tank. For municipal water (common in Collingwood and Wasaga Beach), close the main shutoff valve.
- Open every faucet in the cottage, hot and cold, starting from the highest floor and working down. This lets gravity drain the lines.
- Flush all toilets and hold the handle down to drain the tank completely. Sponge out any remaining water in the bowl and tank.
- Drain the hot water heater. Connect a garden hose to the drain valve and route it outside or to a floor drain. This can take 30 to 60 minutes for a full tank.
Blow Out the Lines
Draining by gravity alone is not enough. Trapped water in low spots, elbows, and horizontal runs will freeze and crack pipes. Use an air compressor rated for at least 50 PSI to blow compressed air through every line. Start from the water heater end and work toward each fixture.
Pro tip: Do not exceed 70 PSI when blowing lines. Higher pressures can damage PEX and copper fittings. Use short bursts of air rather than sustained pressure.
Add Antifreeze to Traps
Pour non-toxic RV antifreeze (propylene glycol, not automotive ethylene glycol) into every drain trap: sinks, tubs, showers, floor drains, and the washing machine standpipe. This prevents the water in the P-trap from freezing, cracking the trap, and allowing sewer gas into the cottage. Use about 500 mL per trap. Also pour antifreeze into the toilet bowl after draining.
2. Heating System
You have two options for winter: leave the heat on at a minimal setting, or shut it off entirely. The right choice depends on your property, your insurance policy, and whether you have monitoring in place. If you still use the cottage for the odd ski weekend and rely on a woodstove for backup heat, it is worth having firewood delivered and stacked before the snow flies, so you arrive to a full woodpile instead of hauling logs through a foot of snow in January. Working out ordering and stacking your season's firewood ahead of the first cold snap saves a mid-winter scramble.
Option A: Leave Heat On (Recommended)
- Set the thermostat to 10°C (50°F). This keeps the interior above freezing while minimizing energy costs. Most furnaces in the area run on natural gas or propane, so verify your tank level or gas connection before closing.
- Replace the furnace filter. A dirty filter reduces airflow and makes the furnace work harder, increasing the chance of a mid-winter shutdown.
- Ensure the thermostat has fresh batteries (if battery-operated). A dead thermostat in January is a frozen cottage by February.
If the cottage keeps water on over winter, pipes in crawl spaces and exterior walls need more than furnace heat. Our heat trace cable guide covers which cable type to use on vulnerable runs, what installation costs, and when heat trace beats a full drain-down.
Option B: Shut Off Heat Entirely
If you have fully drained the plumbing and are confident no water remains anywhere in the system, you can turn off the heat. This saves on utility costs but means the interior temperature will match the exterior. Everything you leave inside must tolerate freezing temperatures: canned goods, electronics, cleaning products, and paint all need to be removed or protected.
Insurance note: Many cottage insurance policies in Ontario require you to either maintain heat above a minimum temperature or have someone check the property every 48 to 72 hours during winter. Check your policy, because violating this clause can void your coverage entirely. A ChaletGuard monitoring system with temperature alerts satisfies most insurer requirements.
3. Exterior Preparation
Roof and Gutters
- Clean all gutters and downspouts. Clogged gutters cause ice dams, which can lift shingles and let meltwater into the attic. In the Blue Mountain area, heavy snowfall combined with freeze-thaw cycles makes ice dams one of the most common winter damage issues.
- Inspect the roof for missing or damaged shingles. A small repair in October prevents a large leak in February.
- Ensure downspout extensions direct water at least 2 metres away from the foundation.
Deck, Dock, and Outdoor Furniture
- Remove docks and store them on shore above the high-water mark. Ice heave can destroy a dock left in the water over winter. If your dock is permanent, install ice deflectors and remove the dock ladder and accessories.
- Store outdoor furniture inside the cottage or in a shed. Covering furniture with tarps alone is not sufficient. Georgian Bay winds will shred lightweight covers by January.
- Drain and disconnect garden hoses. Shut off exterior hose bibs from inside and open the outdoor tap to let any remaining water drain.
Septic System
If your cottage is on a septic system (most rural properties in Clearview, Meaford, and Thornbury are), have the tank pumped if it is due. Mark the tank and bed location with stakes so snow removal equipment avoids driving over the bed. Do not add antifreeze to the septic system, because it kills the bacteria needed for decomposition.
4. Pest Prevention
Mice, squirrels, and raccoons actively seek shelter as temperatures drop. An unoccupied cottage is an open invitation if you do not seal it properly.
- Inspect the foundation, soffits, and around utility penetrations for gaps. Mice can fit through a hole the size of a dime. Seal openings with steel wool and caulk.
- Remove all food from the cottage, including canned goods (which can freeze and burst), pet food, and birdseed stored inside. Clean the oven and stovetop to remove food residue.
- Place mousetraps or deterrents (peppermint oil cotton balls) in kitchen cabinets, under sinks, and near entry points.
- Close the fireplace damper and cover the chimney cap. Raccoons and squirrels will nest in open chimneys.
5. Security and Monitoring
An empty cottage in a rural area needs more than a locked door. Break-ins at seasonal properties are a known issue across the Georgian Bay region, and most happen between November and March when homes are clearly unoccupied. Visible activity is the cheapest deterrent there is, which is one reason ChaletGuard property checks are scheduled through the winter rather than only after a storm.
- Leave interior lights on timers that mimic occupancy. A lamp in the living room cycling from 5 PM to 11 PM is a simple deterrent.
- Ask a trusted neighbour to park in your driveway occasionally, or arrange for regular property checks. Our Watch + Care plan includes bi-weekly inspections with photo reports.
- Remove valuables or store them out of sight. Do not leave expensive electronics, tools, or recreational equipment visible from windows.
- Install remote monitoring. A ChaletGuard sensor suite monitors temperature, humidity, water leaks, and power outages in real time and sends push notifications to your phone. If your furnace fails at 2 AM on a Tuesday in January, you will know within minutes, not weeks later when you visit.
6. Electrical and Appliances
- Unplug all appliances except the fridge (if you are leaving heat on) and any sump pumps. Phantom power draw adds up over five months and surge damage from winter storms is common.
- Clean and defrost the fridge and freezer if shutting off heat. Leave doors propped open with a towel to prevent mould growth inside.
- Test smoke detectors and carbon monoxide detectors. Replace batteries even if they test fine, because cold temperatures drain battery life faster than normal.
- If your area is prone to power outages (Clearview and rural Meaford especially), consider a battery backup for the furnace thermostat. A UPS unit rated for 72 hours costs about $150 and can save your pipes.
When to Winterize in the Collingwood Area
Timing matters. Close too early and you miss peak fall weekends. Close too late and you risk the first hard freeze catching you off guard. For the Collingwood, Blue Mountain, and Thornbury area, the sweet spot is typically Thanksgiving weekend through the last week of October. Nighttime temperatures begin dipping below freezing in early October, and by November the risk of a sustained cold snap is real.
If you plan to use your cottage for ski season at Blue Mountain, a partial winterization makes sense: drain outdoor water lines and the dock system, but keep interior plumbing and heat active. Just make sure you have monitoring in place for the days and weeks between visits. One thing owners forget once the cottage is closed up is access: an unplowed laneway means nobody can reach the property, not you, not a plumber, not an insurance inspector. We offer managed snow removal to keep the laneway plowed all winter, so help can always get in when something goes wrong.
Quick Reference Checklist
Do It Right, or Let Us Do It for You
Winterizing a cottage properly takes half a day with the right tools and experience. For a standard chalet in the Collingwood or Blue Mountain area, our Season Turn closing service covers every item on this checklist, from blowing out pipes to adding antifreeze to every trap, inspecting the roof, sealing entry points, and providing a full photo report when complete. Pricing starts at $249 for a condo and $449 for a standard chalet.
Pair it with ChaletGuard monitoring and you will know instantly if something goes wrong during the winter months. Temperature drops, water leaks, and power outages all trigger real-time alerts to your phone, so you can act before a minor issue becomes a major repair.
Let Us Handle the Closing
Our Season Turn service covers every item on this checklist: pipe blowout, antifreeze, roof inspection, and full photo report. Starting at $299.
Monitor Your Cottage All Winter
ChaletGuard sensors alert you instantly to temperature drops, water leaks, and power outages, before damage happens. $59 a month.
Doing it yourself versus booking it
| Property type | Our price | DIY time and kit |
|---|---|---|
| Condo or townhouse | $249 | 2 to 3 hours, plus a compressor |
| Standard chalet or cottage | $449 | 4 to 6 hours, plus a compressor and traps |
| Waterfront with dock | $899 | A full day, and dock removal needs two people |
| Dock removal only | $349 | 3 to 4 hours with a second pair of hands |
Prices in CAD, plus HST. Booking the closing and the following spring opening together takes 10 percent off both. Full pricing is on the pricing page.
Doing it yourself is entirely reasonable if you own a compressor and have done it before. The two things that push owners to book it out are the drive, which is two hours each way from most of the GTA, and the blow-out step, which is where a confident DIY closing most often goes wrong. When spring comes round, the Ontario cottage opening checklist reverses everything on this page.
Questions we get on the closing call
When should I close my cottage in southern Georgian Bay?
Aim for the two weeks before the first hard frost, which in Collingwood and the Blue Mountains usually means the second half of October. Thanksgiving weekend is the traditional target and it is also the weekend every contractor in Simcoe and Grey County is booked solid. If your cottage has no heat at all, close earlier, because an unheated building follows the outside temperature within a day.
Do I really need to blow out the lines, or is draining enough?
Draining alone is not enough on most properties. Gravity clears vertical runs but leaves water sitting in horizontal pipe, in the low spots under a crawlspace, and inside pump housings and filter canisters. That trapped water is what splits a line at minus 15. Compressed air at 40 to 50 PSI clears it. Go much past 60 PSI and you risk damaging fittings and fixture seals.
Should I leave the heat on or turn it off completely?
Leave it on, holding at 10 to 12 degrees, unless the plumbing has been fully drained and blown out. Heat is a backstop, not a substitute for winterizing. Owners who rely on heat alone are one furnace failure away from a burst pipe, and a furnace that fails in January will not tell you it failed.
What does a professional cottage closing cost around Collingwood?
A condo or townhouse closing runs $249, a standard chalet or cottage $449, and a waterfront property with a dock to pull $899. Dock removal on its own is $349. Booking the closing and the following spring opening together takes 10 percent off both. Set that against the $20,000 to $50,000 range a burst-pipe claim lands in.
Will my insurer ask for proof that the cottage was closed properly?
Many Ontario policies on seasonal properties carry a vacancy clause requiring the water shut off and drained, or the heat held above a stated minimum, or the property checked on a schedule. The wording varies by insurer, so read yours. If a claim does come, dated photographs of the shut main, the open drain valves, and the thermostat reading settle the question quickly. We are not insurance advisors, so ask your broker what your policy actually requires.
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